, 25. September 2016
Fashion out of this World

The Couture - a dying Business?

Has the haute couture since the 60s several times been declared dead, while times of economic crisis it was actually believed, that nobody any more asks for these luxurious handcrafted fashion creations. Renowned fashion houses experienced a sharp decline in its top price segment.

x-working Countless beads sewn by hand for hours - that is Haute Couture.
Countless beads sewn by hand for hours - that is Haute Couture.

In these times of economic crisis, yet couture reinvented itself. The time was projected in metaphors onto fashion - tight skirt lengths, see-through pencil skirts - something one saw at haute couture shows in Paris in 2009, which actually became smaller.

Today things are different again. Although, the rules to reach haute couture status as a designer, have not modified. The "Chambre Syndicale" today still determines, that an institution has to offer tailor-made collections for residential customers, which are produced in a studio in Paris by at least 15 craftsmen, and which are to be presented with a minimum of 35 looks twice a year at the couture shows. Only 14 fashion houses practice haute couture worldwide.

For the autumn / winter collection 2015/2016, the chief designers of "Valentino", Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccoli, invited, not as usual, to Paris, but presented their haute couture in Rome. The duo presented 59 looks as a tribute to the eternal city. Dresses were shown, that brought Cardinal robes to ones mind, that cite the arches of the Colosseum and ancient mosaic floors, or dresses like laurel wreaths, memories of female gladiators or Roman female goddesses were awakened. The stunning craftsmanship can get discrovered with regards to all looks.

The Unique Seeling Point of haute couture is tied to the fact, that sartorial art seems to stand still in time. Untouched from the technical progress tailors worked just as long at a design like they had been doing so 60 years ago. Consequently, one can say that Karl Lagerfeld with Chanel this year makes a revolution tangible: For his haute couture designs he used a new 3D technology. He explained its processes at his show in detail. And even if this innovation is not evident at first sight in the collections, they result in detail, in feeling and wearing the pieces. The designs are classic Chanel: knee-length skirts, dresses in slight tulip shape, boxy coats. However, designs were created with this new technology that do not show sutures. Thus, fashion haute couture yet developed further - even if it does not seem to be of this world.

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